It’s also a good idea because when your catchers start to attract attention you can be sure some bees somewhere are having bad thoughts. Sprinke the scouts with a little flour and watch which hive they return to.

Points to consider when setting up a catcher hive are:

• Volume
• Entrance size
• Height from ground
• Aspect
• Presence of combs
• Number of options

1. Volume

When choosing a potential home, size matters.

When a swarm of bees moves into a new home, their priorities are to produce a viable sized colony with  sufficient honey to get them through winter.  It needs to be big enough but not too big. If it is too big, it will be draughty and cold, if it is too small there may not be room for the bees, their brood and their stores.

When studying wild bees, Tom Seeley found the smallest nest space to be 12 litres and the largest were about 100 litres with one outlier of 400 litres.  However, most of the nests he found were between 30 and 60 litres. A National brood box has a capacity of about 36 litres, which is handy. Native Irish bees tend to overwinter quite a small colony so this size – at the lower end of the range should be about right.

I’ve had a lot of success with nucs too but beware – they can outgrow them very quickly.

Speaking of draughts – always set up a catcher hive with a solid floor. Given the choice, bees won’t accept a hive with a mesh floor.

2. Entrance size

The entrance size and position is always important for bees for the following reasons:

• Defense;
• Thermoregulation;
• Ease of access in summer.

However their requirements vary with the seasons.

Winter

A small entrance is important in winter to prevent draughts.

• A draughty nest means bees have to consume more of their precious stores to keep warm.
• They also prefer the entrance to be below the brood nest because heat rises and would be lost through a top entrance.
• A small entrance will also keep out pests and predators like mice or rats although once autumn has given way to true winter, fewer of these are about the place.

Summer

In summer, a small entrance can become a liability.

• On a busy summer’s day, a small entrance is a hindrance to the crowds of excited bees struggling to get in and out.
• On squally days when hordes of foraging bees come hurtling home all at the same time ahead of pelting rain can result in large numbers being dashed to the ground because they can’t get in quick enough.
• On a very hot day, the bees might overheat if the entrance is too small.
• However, wasps or robbing bees from other colonies are more easily repelled from a small entrance.

In Information Bulletin 187 Bait Hives for Honey Bees, Tom Seeley suggests a circular opening with a 1.5 inch diameter, however this would admit mice and even a rat so unless your bait hive is out of reach of these rodents, the standard 4 x 0.25 inch slot found in a National or Commercial winter entrance block should fit the bill.

3. Height

The higher you can get your bait hive, the better. However, you need to be pragmatic. Are you going to leave the bees to their own devices or do you plan to remove and relocate them?

If the latter, get them as high as is sensible. If the former – the sky’s the limit.

4. Aspect

When looking for a new home, bees like to face in a  southerly direction. It is particularly important for them in winter.  Winter sun slanting in through the entrance will entice them out for cleansing flights and they must appreciate the warmth of the sun on the hive front.

However, in summer, bees can overheat, so shade from summer foliage becomes important.

5. Presence of Combs

When a swarm moves into a new home their priority is to get the queen laying. This is particularly important if she is an old queen and if there is a long period of shitty weather, not unknown out here at the wet end of Europe. An old queen might fizzle out  before the bees can draw comb for her then they are up shit creek without a paddle. They must either go back home or they might soldier on for a while with laying workers.

A few drawn combs in the catcher will allow the old girl to lay some eggs then if she does fizzle they can at least try and recover the situation.

The presence of some drawn combs  with some granulated stores will attract bees too, even if they rob it out they will note the place and may come back when they are in need of a home.

If you plan to remove the bees, it is best to equip the hive with a crown board and a full complement of frames even if only a few are drawn. The rest can be equipped with a starter or even left empty. You will be amazed at the speed with which a strong swarm with a laying queen can draw wax and fill it with brood. If you don’t put frames in, those combs will be of the abstract wild variety and they’ll be suspended from the crown board – or the roof if you omitted it. I cannot describe to you the mess that happens if you arrive late and unthinkingly prise it off!

Number of Options

It seems to help if you put up more than one catcher hive per location. I’m not sure why – it’s an observation.

The more options you offer, the more likely they are to choose one of them rather than a more tricky location:

Native Irish Honey Bee Conservation

This country has the lowest tree cover in Europe which means homes for wild honey bees are scarce. No harm then to put up a box, with good thick walls for warmth, which you will leave alone. We have borrowed the bees from the wild for long enough so perhaps it is a good idea to provide homes for wild honey bees where they can be left alone to live and evolve in peace.  In return, they will contribute their drones to the congregation areas and if they have evolved traits or behaviours which make the wild bees more able to tolerate Varroa and other diseases then we will all benefit.

Click here for more about swarming

Click here for how to hive a swarm

Click here for My First Swarm

Further Reading

Bait Hives for Honey Bees by Thomas D. Seeley, Roger A.Morse and Richard Nowogrodzki

HoneyBee Democracy by Thomas D. Seeley 2010 Princeton University Press

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One day either November 19 or 20th, 2016 to learn the techniques and make a small demonstration piece.

or

Both days to make a full size skep.

Tools and materials supplied.

Use the contact form below for further information.

Basic Shook Swarm

When to do it?

If you are doing this to change a full box of comb you can do it up until late June early July. To help set back swarming and turbo charge the bees the best time to do it is around the last week in April and the first week in May.

Why?

• Eggs laid during this period would become foragers in the June gap when there is often a dearth of forage for the bees. You don’t need them;
• Eggs laid after this time are the foragers for the flow. You do need these.

When not to do it

• Don’t do it at all after mid-July as the queen is on the wane, the bees are no longer in build-up mode and are more likely to be demoralised. Also you are in danger of removing brood that would become much needed winter bees.
• Don’t do this to a weak hive of bees – it might finish them. Anything over 5 frames of brood should benefit from this but you must feed them.

Method:

• Move your target hive of bees to one side;
• Set a floor in its place;
• Put a queen excluder on top of the floor;
• Place a brood box with a full complement of frames kitted out with fresh foundation on the queen excluder – never use horrible old foundation for this – it needs to be lovely and fresh and fragrant;
• Remove three frames from the centre of the new box;
• Find the queen and place her out of harm’s way;
• Carefully shake all the bees, frame by frame, from the old box into the space in the centre of the new one;
• Brush any remaining bees from the old box and floor into the new box;
• There should now  be flying bees returning home and the shaken bees should be creeping up the frames;
• Gently persuade the queen into the new box;
• Replace the crown board;
• Feed strong syrup;
• After about a week check that there is brood present and remove the queen excluder;
• Place it above the brood box and add a couple of supers.

If you are sure the bees are disease free you can distribute the brood to weak colonies but be careful not to overload them. Give emerging brood to the weakest – only give larvae and eggs to colonies that are strong enough to feed them. You’ll have to gauge that yourself!

If the bees have Varroa, EFB or bad Chalk Brood just burn the brood.

Shook Swarm for Disease

Certain brood diseases of bees such as AFB, EFB and chalk brood can be successfully treated using a shook swarm. However, always respect the laws of your country regarding bee diseases and if they say burn the bees – well, you’d better burn them.

EFB and chalk brood and to a certain extent – Varroa – can be treated using the method above but if you want to be sure to be sure – use the method below. It’s more or less the same as above but incorporates a brief starvation period during which time any disease propagules are either consumed or incorporated into wax. Either way they are removed from the bees.

This will only work on a strong colony. If the bees are already tottering with a huge amount of disease or if the queen is mediocre or if it is late in the year – don’t bother because you are wasting your time.

• Move your target hive of bees to one side;
• Set a floor in its place;
• Put a queen excluder on top of the floor
• Place a brood box with a full complement of frames kitted out with 2 inch starter strips of foundation on the queen excluder;
• Find the queen and place her out of harm’s way;
• Carefully shake all the bees, frame by frame, from the old box into the space in the centre of the new one;
• Brush any remaining bees from the old box and floor into the new box;
• There should now  be flying bees returning home and the shaken bees should be creeping up the frames;
• Gently persuade the queen into the new box;
• Replace the crown board;
• When all the bees have returned home in the evening – close the entrance with foam and move the entire hive into a cool dark place;
• Leave it there for two days;
• During this time the bees will empty the collective honey stomach and use it to build comb and to survive. Any spores and other disease propagules will be incorporated into the wax or voided by the bees;
• Drip-feed them a little syrup during this period if you fear they are starving of if you just can’t bear it;
• Burn the frames and blow-torch the brood box, crown board and floor;
• After two days place a new floor, a queen excluder then and a new brood box kitted out with a full complement of frames with fresh full sheets of foundation on the old site. Again you don’t want them to abscond;
• Remove the middle 4 frames;
• Bring back the poor bees from that cool dark place;
• Gently shake all the bees off the frames and brush the remainder into the fresh box;
• Replace the 4 frames into the centre;
• Replace the crown board;
• Release the bees;
• Feed them like mad;
• These bees should now be disease free;
• However, burn any comb and brood they have produced and blow torch all the old equipment;
• If there were supers – these should be disease-free unless the queen was allowed to get up there and lay in which case you should probably burn these frames also;

When dealing with infectious diseases always burn your gloves, torch your hive tool and don’t forget to scrub your smoker with a strong solution of washing soda and water.

Click here for more about Brood Diseases of honey bees

Click here for more about AFB

Click here for more about EFB

Click here for more about Chalk Brood

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 Arnia System

• Hive Monitors – one per hive;
• Weather Station – one per apiary;
• Monitor Gateway – one per apiary;
• User Interface – one per user;

Hive Monitors

• Brood temperature;
• Hive temperature;
• Hive humidity;
• Colony activity;
• Weight.

 Weather Station

User Interface

• At the top, left to right, is weather data for the past week followed by battery status and signal strength;
• Interlocked cogs icon – far right – accesses User Interface Settings;
• The number of bees hovering over each hives indicates the degree of activity per hive;
• The different coloured icons pinned to each hive access detailed graphs of brood temperature, humidity, activity and the ambient temperature of each hive;
• The two hives on the right (below) are fitted with hive scales and the black icons access weight data.

How do you use it?

• Comparison
• Management
• Alerts

Comparisons

With a system like this which gathers and stores so much detailed information the possibilities for analysis and comparison are endless.

In addition, your own hive inspection data such as queen ID, colony assessment and appraisals, disease data, Varroa counts etc etc can all be added into the pot.

Comparisons between hives, between apiaries and between years are vital to both short and long term projects such as bee breeding, research and good old-fashioned curiosity.

Here are a few possibles:

• Comparison between hive types – poly or wood, commercial or national, mesh floor or solid in terms of humidity and temperature. This data could also be useful in conjunction with your own disease data i.e. chalk brood, Varroa, Acarine etc.;
• Comparison between colonies in terms of timing and speed of build up, activity, colony size, swarming behaviour, honey production – very useful when selecting breeding material – especially in conjunction with queen lineage information;
• Comparison between apiaries – to pinpoint best aspect, altitude, temperature, shade etc to maximise productivity vs swarm reduction etc.;
• Comparison of weight data between years in conjunction with weather data and times of day when foraging is at a peak could help pinpoint tantalising stuff like the ideal weather for fickle nectar flows such as hawthorn or heather;

Management

Monitoring can give indications about what is happening out there in your out-apiaries and what you might be needing in terms of equipment, time and energy. Weather data can be used to see if it’s worth going at all!

• Queen Status

Brood temperature is steady at 34 degrees C and is tracked by the monitors. This means you can spot a failing queen and/or monitor a virgin to see when she gets going and see that she keeps going. How annoying that is, when you find that the new queen you thought was going like a train and had left alone accordingly actually fizzled out two weeks ago.

Sudden erratic brood temperature also occurs if the queen gets into the supers – that’s annoying too – specially when she puts 2,000 eggs per day into your precious cut-comb?

If you treat your bees mid-winter with oxalic acid you will know that it is vital that the bees be broodless and the hive monitor will tell you this. Even if you were to monitor only your strongest hive going into winter it would give you some idea of the state of the brood in the others.

• Weight Data

• Activity Data 

Acoustic data can be used to detect robbing. I’ve heard it said that robbing doesn’t matter – you’re going to take the honey anyway but that’s not quite the point. For a start, the robbing might be by somebody else’s bees!

The other evil with robbing is that it can lead to the death of a nuc headed by a valuable young queen. It’s something that needs to be be nipped in the bud that is for sure. Early detection could be very useful.

Downloadable Data

SMS Alerts

Now this could be very useful.

A variety of systematic SMS or text message alerts can be set up by the user to warn of things such as unstable brood temperatures, humidity or sudden increases in weight which can indicate robbing or a prodigious flow.

Automatic SMS alarms will also go out when a monitor detects something such as theft of a hive or when a hive is overturned. Hives are often overturned in winter when branches fall or stock get in amongst; if the boxes burst asunder the bees can die of exposure if not found quickly. Like taxes and death – thieves are always out there!

As luck would have it – Arnia.co.uk have lent me a monitoring kit so a road test will follow. Watch this space…

Click here for how to make your own scale hive

Click here for more about scale hives 

Click here for Remote Hive Monitoring Action

Click here for Useful Arnia Hive Scale Data

• Whichever method you choose – bees should be hived at dusk or late in the afternoon so the bees don’t have time to swarm out again before dark. That way they will have all night long to consider their position.
• Bees will swarm if they think they are in danger of starvation so even if there is a strong flow in progress and the weather is set fair (ha-ha fat chance!) give them plenty of feed and they will stay put. Make sure you prime the feeder properly especially if you are using sugar syrup which has very little smell to draw the bees up.
• If your swarm has been hanging from a tree in your apiary for some time, the ‘3 feet or 3 miles’ rule will apply. In such cases it is a good idea to take the swarm elsewhere to hive it or the bees will be confused and continue to home in on the tree. Remember – they are all flying bees!
• Depending on how long your swarm was hung up before you came upon it – it may or may not have a queen. If a queenless swarm is hived close to the colony it issued from – it will just evaporate as all the bees can go ‘home’. If you brought it in from elsewhere, queenlessness could be less obvious and it will slowly dwindle.
• Unite a queenless swarm with another colony but first be sure it is queenless. Puny virgins can be horribly efficient at dispatching a great big laying queens – they’re probably faster on their feet.

Here are three methods of hiving a swarm:

Click here for the Hiving a swarm: the Easy Way

Click here for Hiving a swarm: the Pretty Way

Click here for Hiving a swarm: the No-Frills Way

First Swarm – or how not to hive a swarm

Copyright © Beespoke.info, 2015.  All Rights Reserved.

• The hive, equipped with frames including two frames of stores and two frames of drawn foundation if possible
• A rapid feeder – Ashforth or Miller type
• Strong syrup – 2:1
• An empty super – no frames – just the box
• A lit smoker belching plenty of smoke
• A bit of foam rubber

Method

• Do this at dusk or late in the afternoon
• Set your hive on the stand
• Plug the entrance with foam rubber
• Remove the roof and crownboard
• Add the empty super – this is just to receive the bees and stop them all falling over the edges
• Pour the skepful of bees carefully into the super making sure you get all the bees out
• Smoke them down into the brood box
• Remove the super making sure you brush off all the bees
• Put the feeder on, fill with syrup and prime it ie trickle syrup over the feeder rim and on to the frames below
• Add crownboard and roof
• Leave for an hour or so then remove the foam. Don’t leave it too long if your swarm is enormous or your floor is the solid variety – they might stifle.

Click here for general information on hiving a swarm

Click here for the Easy Way to Hive a Swarm

Click here for the Pretty Way to Hive a Swarm

Copyright © Beespoke.info, 2015.  All Rights Reserved.

Materials

• The hive stand
• The hive complete with frames preferably a couple of drawn frames and a couple of stores. The rest can be foundation
• A rapid feeder – Ashforth or Miller type
• Heavy 2:1 syrup
• A lowish hive stand or box
• A board which can be set against the hive at a gentle angle
• A white sheet

Method

• Do this at dusk or late in the afternoon
• Put the two drawn frames into the middle and the two frames of stores at the edges
• Set the hive ‘the cold way’ ie with frames perpendicular to the entrance. The drawn frames will have a bee-ish smell and set the cold way and with these in the middle the bees will notice more quickly and be drawn in
• Remove the entrance block
• Put the feeder on
• Fill with syrup and prime it i.e. slop some syrup over the feeding slot and onto the frames below
• Set the board so that it is propped against the floor just below the entrance at a low angle (about 30 degrees) and secure with a brick or some such so it won’t slide
• Spread the white sheet over the board, tuck it in and smooth out the wrinkles
• Get your skep and tip the bees onto the sheet-covered ramp
• Settle down and watch
• If they won’t get moving give the tail end a few gentle puffs of smoke
• Keep an eye out for the queen
• If there is more than one there could be a scrap – they go at it like Jack Russel terriers or so I am told
• The bees will start to walk up the ramp slowly at first
• Once the queen has gone in they will speed up – sometimes this can be really fast

Click here for general information on hiving a swarm

Click here for the Easy Way to Hive a Swarm

Click here for the No-Frills Way to Hive a Swarm

Copyright © Beespoke.info, 2015.  All Rights Reserved.

Materials

1. The hive you are going to put the swarm into, equipped with at least 2 frames of stores and 2 drawn frames – the rest can be foundation
2. A rapid feeder – Ashforth or Miller type
3. Strong syrup
4. A spare brood box.

Method

At this point I’m going to assume your skep is face down on the ground, or on a sheet like the one in the photo above but with the swarm hanging up inside it.

• Do this at dusk or late in the afternoon
• Set up your hive floor on the stand where you want the swarm to live;
• Gently turn your skep upside down and set it quietly on the floor inside the spare, empty brood box thus:

• Get your other brood box and set it on top of the box with the skep in it;
• Set the rapid feeder on top, fill with strong syrup and prime it ie slop an amount over the feeder rim onto the frames below;
• Put the roof on;
• Walk away;
• During the night, as long as they have a queen with them, the bees will walk up out of the skep and by morning will have occupied the frames and be taking down syrup;
• If your swarm is absolutely huge – it might take a bit longer.

Next day remove the empty skep and the spare brood box.

Click here for general information on hiving a swarm

Click here for Hiving a Swarm the Pretty Way

Click here for Hiving a Swarm the Brutal Way

Click here for Skep History

Click here for How to Make your own Skep

Copyright © Beespoke.info, 2015.  All Rights Reserved.

It was our first year as beekeepers. We’d done the course, joined the local association then, come spring, we bought two nucs. We sited them in a quiet corner of the garden but quite close to the house where we could keep an eye on them. The man we bought them from came and supervised our first inspection when we found the queens and marked them but then we were on our own.

We carried out weekly inspections and kept detailed notes – I have them still – and they make for interesting reading. We kept count of queen cells but I’m not sure why. Or, more importantly, what we were doing with them! On the 12^th May there was one queen-cell, on the 18th there were 3, on the 26^th there were 5 then on the 2^nd June there were 12QC’s and a note saying, “…the queen cells are quite advanced – 2 capped” and “Fed 1kg sugar”. How did I think that was going to help I wonder? Then the inevitable – 6^th June in capital letters ‘SWARM at 3.30!!’ How did I not see that coming?

I remember the noise – that excited roar – and the shock of it. It was a hot day too – well it would be – and the air was full of bees. I easily traced the source hive – they were still billowing out as if they were being blown out of a hose. Apart from sticking my finger in the hole I didn’t know what the hell to do, so I did the headless chicken thing while I thought about it. Finally –  a moment of clarity!  I fought my way into my bee-suit and ran back to the garden, smoker in one hand and a copy of Hooper in the other, where the bees were gathering in a lump on top of a post on the other side of the garden wall.

I leapt the wall, landing with a thud in the dust – and began frantically flicking through Hooper for advice but it was buried in chapters of text. Then – a nugget of information!  I needed to get a box and I needed to invert it over the swarm.

I went back over the wall and found a cardboard box in the shed. I tossed it back over the wall and followed it with the smoker and Hooper. I upended the box over the bees and blew a tentative puff of smoke at them to try and get them go up into it. The lump of bees on the post pulled their skirts up a bit in response but didn’t really seem to be taking up residence.

It was a blazing hot day and Hooper said to shade the bees from the sun. There was something in my head about a sheet so I climbed over the wall, dug out an old one then clambered back again, the sheet the smoker, Hooper and me landing with a fusillade of thuds in the dust. I draped the sheet as best I could over the box on the fencepost which was not easy as there was a strong breeze blowing.

Before long, the activity attracted the attention of the bullocks, about 20 of them were here for the summer. They came galloping towards us like a cartoon stampede – a cloud of dust with hooves and tails sticking out of it – skidding to a halt and settling in a semicircle with their entourage of flies – coughing and belching.

Then my dog, Bunty, realizing I was over the other side of the wall with the bullocks and being a bit over-protective, suddenly jumped the wall, landed with a thud and started barking madly. The bullocks surged backwards in horror while she snapped at them – some of them began plunging about in alarm and she saw fit to chase them – it was getting a bit like Pamplona.

Apart from this bullock-hell she was creating I was afraid she was going to get stung because she reacts badly so I yelled at her and ordered her over the wall but she wouldn’t go so I had to haul myself back over the wall and call her from the other side and shut her in the house.

When I came back again it was to find that the bullocks were enchanted by the flapping white sheet and had started to tug at it. Horrified I jumped back over the wall landing with the predictable thud which was sufficiently startling to make them back off.

By now most of the bees were up inside the box under the sheet but they were still plastered to the post and I didn’t know what to do. I had a spare nuc box but no frames ready. I had syrup and I had a feeder so I was halfway there but I couldn’t see how I could get the box, the sheet and the bees off the post without crushing thousands of them against the post. Not to mention the bullocks. I knew my nearest beekeeper so I decided I was going to have to phone for help which meant the wall again. He was at work but his wife said she try and get hold of him. Despair!

Of course the bullocks were at the sheet again. I shouted at them and waved my arms but they took no notice so I threw myself over the wall again landing badly and sprawling in the dust. They backed off rapidly nearly pulling the sheet and box right off the post. Then there was another thud in the dust at my side, a hysterical barking started up and the bullocks took off in a body with their tails in the air. I had forgotten to close the bloody door and my heroic dog was here again to protect me, so once again I had to drag myself back over the wall – which was definitely getting bigger – call her over and put her back in the house.

I lurched back round the corner and fell over the wall just as the bullocks completed their circuit of the field and formed their fascinated circle again. After a minute or two the flies came back too.

So here we were in a Mexican stand off – the bullocks, the bees, the flies and me – in the heat of the day and I was beginning to tire. It was very hot and the bloody wall was taking its toll. I was dripping with sweat, it was rolling down my face, soaking my suit and pooling in my Wellington boots and filling my Marigolds. It was going to be a long day.

Then the phone started ringing inside. I was going to let it ring but thinking it might be my friendly local beekeeper I thought I’d better go. I clawed my way back over the you-know-what as quickly as possible, raking my shin painfully on the top but it stopped ringing as I picked it up. I slammed the phone down and staggered outside – as expected – they were at it again.

With the energy born of fury I leaped the wall – black in the face with rage and closely followed by the fecking dog. The bullocks took off on another circuit of the field but this time they stopped at the far corner, milling around in confusion before closing up into a tight arrowhead formation and careering across the field straight towards me. Something snapped, I was incandescent and ran straight at them yelling at the top of my voice brandishing my smoker and my copy of Hooper and followed by the hysterical dog. They scattered, perhaps finally sensing real danger they filtered off into the cool of the swamp where they took to browsing and tossing their heads about as if nothing had happened.

I clung to the wall panting for a while – then heard voices – it was the beekeeper in his bee-suit. He’d phoned, he said, to let me know he’d got off work early to come and help me – there was no answer but he came anyway and hoped I didn’t mind. I don’t think I’ve ever been so relieved to see anybody in my life. He just lifted the whole thing off the post in one go and supervised me as we set up the new box and watched as the bees walked obediently up the ramp into their new home.

As simple as that – I don’t know what all the fuss was about.

Click here for How to Hive a Swarm properly

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It consists of:

• A sheet of plywood with the same horizontal dimensions as your beehive of choice.
• It is equipped with beespace-thick (about 6-7mm) lats attached to all sides top and bottom.
• There is hole about 3″ square cut into the centre which is covered with a metal grille with mesh small enough to prevent bees from actually climbing through but large enough for them to communicate with each other through it physically with their probosces.
• On each side, top and bottom are doors which can be opened and closed by the beekeeper but not by the bees. You can get away with doors on three sides only but the fourth one can come in very handy at times. Here’s a helpful close up of one of the doors – click it for a close up:

You will need to paint the outside edges to prevent the ingress of moisture and subsequent rot. If you can’t be bothered with that you could use marine plywood and durable timber but it would be more expensive and wouldn’t look half as snazzy.

Click here for instructions on how to use it

Click here for a review of L.E.Snelgrove’s wonderful book

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