<?xml version="1.0" encoding="UTF-8"?><rss version="2.0"
	xmlns:content="http://purl.org/rss/1.0/modules/content/"
	xmlns:dc="http://purl.org/dc/elements/1.1/"
	xmlns:atom="http://www.w3.org/2005/Atom"
	xmlns:sy="http://purl.org/rss/1.0/modules/syndication/"
	
	>
<channel>
	<title>
	Comments on: Shook Swarm	</title>
	<atom:link href="http://beespoke.info/2016/03/20/shook-swarm/feed/" rel="self" type="application/rss+xml" />
	<link>http://beespoke.info/2016/03/20/shook-swarm/</link>
	<description>Information For Humans Beeing</description>
	<lastBuildDate>Wed, 10 Apr 2019 16:37:28 +0000</lastBuildDate>
	<sy:updatePeriod>
	hourly	</sy:updatePeriod>
	<sy:updateFrequency>
	1	</sy:updateFrequency>
	
	<item>
		<title>
		By: Gimlet		</title>
		<link>http://beespoke.info/2016/03/20/shook-swarm/#comment-3488</link>

		<dc:creator><![CDATA[Gimlet]]></dc:creator>
		<pubDate>Wed, 10 Apr 2019 16:37:28 +0000</pubDate>
		<guid isPermaLink="false">http://beespoke.info/?p=4723#comment-3488</guid>

					<description><![CDATA[In reply to &lt;a href=&quot;http://beespoke.info/2016/03/20/shook-swarm/#comment-3482&quot;&gt;Kieran Murphy&lt;/a&gt;.

Hello Kieran,
First of all - this winter was so mild the chances are that your colony would not have been broodless in January and that&#039;s probably why the oxalic didn&#039;t work.
I&#039;d worry about shookswarming a 3 year old queen unless she was still good and strong - it&#039;s a pretty stressful thing to do and it&#039;s still quite cold. Have you got drones?
If it&#039;s just varroa you are worried about - you could try again with Apiguard when the temperature comes up a bit (15 degrees).
However, the honey flow is approaching (hopefully) and you won&#039;t want thymol in your honey. 
You could consider MAQs as you don&#039;t have to remove supers, the formic acid won&#039;t get into your honey (if there is any) and they work at 10 degrees or above - brood or no brood. But that can be hard on the queen as well - it can cause a failing queen to be superceded. Not always a bad thing.
Once you have drones, you could consider taking away your old queen in a nuc with lots of bees and just a little brood, leaving most of the varroa behind. Meanwhile, the original colony will rear a new queen for you. During the short period they are broodless and before the new queen gets laying, you could trickle (or vaporise) with oxalic acid. 
If that manoeuvre was to work, it would fend off the varroa for the season and get you a new queen as well. 
If the original colony failed to get a new queen laying you would still have the old girl in the nuc.
Hope this is helpful.]]></description>
			<content:encoded><![CDATA[<p>In reply to <a href="http://beespoke.info/2016/03/20/shook-swarm/#comment-3482">Kieran Murphy</a>.</p>
<p>Hello Kieran,<br />
First of all &#8211; this winter was so mild the chances are that your colony would not have been broodless in January and that&#8217;s probably why the oxalic didn&#8217;t work.<br />
I&#8217;d worry about shookswarming a 3 year old queen unless she was still good and strong &#8211; it&#8217;s a pretty stressful thing to do and it&#8217;s still quite cold. Have you got drones?<br />
If it&#8217;s just varroa you are worried about &#8211; you could try again with Apiguard when the temperature comes up a bit (15 degrees).<br />
However, the honey flow is approaching (hopefully) and you won&#8217;t want thymol in your honey.<br />
You could consider MAQs as you don&#8217;t have to remove supers, the formic acid won&#8217;t get into your honey (if there is any) and they work at 10 degrees or above &#8211; brood or no brood. But that can be hard on the queen as well &#8211; it can cause a failing queen to be superceded. Not always a bad thing.<br />
Once you have drones, you could consider taking away your old queen in a nuc with lots of bees and just a little brood, leaving most of the varroa behind. Meanwhile, the original colony will rear a new queen for you. During the short period they are broodless and before the new queen gets laying, you could trickle (or vaporise) with oxalic acid.<br />
If that manoeuvre was to work, it would fend off the varroa for the season and get you a new queen as well.<br />
If the original colony failed to get a new queen laying you would still have the old girl in the nuc.<br />
Hope this is helpful.</p>
]]></content:encoded>
		
			</item>
		<item>
		<title>
		By: Kieran Murphy		</title>
		<link>http://beespoke.info/2016/03/20/shook-swarm/#comment-3482</link>

		<dc:creator><![CDATA[Kieran Murphy]]></dc:creator>
		<pubDate>Tue, 09 Apr 2019 19:29:16 +0000</pubDate>
		<guid isPermaLink="false">http://beespoke.info/?p=4723#comment-3482</guid>

					<description><![CDATA[Hi there
On reading your post above you have hopefully answered my prayers/question barr one. After last summer&#039;s honey flow ended I did my usual and treated this particular hive with trays of Apiguard as usual then in January as the mite drop was still high I treated with oxalic acid.
Now with the honey flow approaching fast this method you&#039;ve described seems perfect other than the fact this queen is now on her third season I&#039;m wondering when is it best to move her on(squish her) and still try rid the colony of this varroa that persists.?
 Kind regards Kieran]]></description>
			<content:encoded><![CDATA[<p>Hi there<br />
On reading your post above you have hopefully answered my prayers/question barr one. After last summer&#8217;s honey flow ended I did my usual and treated this particular hive with trays of Apiguard as usual then in January as the mite drop was still high I treated with oxalic acid.<br />
Now with the honey flow approaching fast this method you&#8217;ve described seems perfect other than the fact this queen is now on her third season I&#8217;m wondering when is it best to move her on(squish her) and still try rid the colony of this varroa that persists.?<br />
 Kind regards Kieran</p>
]]></content:encoded>
		
			</item>
	</channel>
</rss>
